Day 7: Syracuse to Cefalú, 226 Km

We had no such luck, however, and we awoke to another day of rain. Although we managed to get through a torrential downpour that flooded the city streets, disaster struck when we rode up into the interior foothills, where the rain had pushed mud onto the roads. I wiped out on a muddy stretch, and though I was okay, I felt pain in my shoulders. To be on the safe side, I decided not to ride for a day and a half. 

Jure came to collect me in the AMT van and the others forged head, carefully. We took different routes to the evening’s destination of Cefalú. The van took the more direct motorways, while the riders wound through higher altitudes before descending to ride along a stretch of the coast.

Sicily Interior.

Cefalú is a glorious city up on a steep outcropping where you can see for miles along a stunning coastline. Dinner that evening was in the city’s medieval district, dominated by the Duomo, an imposing Norman cathedral. At dinner, I was comforted by the sympathetic words and support of my fellow riders and our guides Jure and Mitja. I knew I was in good hands.

Cefalu seafront.

Glorious Cefalu.

Day 8: Cefalú to Taormina, 205 Km

Cefalu Hotel Sunrise.

I felt my shoulders weren’t quite ready to endure a full day of riding, so I took the day off and rode in the van with Jure. Riders followed a scenic coastal route on the north side of the island alongside the Tyrrhenian Sea before turning south and skirting the base of Mount Etna.

With Mount Etna as a backdrop. 

They reported that both parts of the route were fun to ride, but they couldn’t stop telling me about how they mistakenly sat down to an all-you-can-eat buffet lunch at a restaurant in the small hillside town of Locanda, overlooking the sea. Before they knew it, they were being served large dishes of pasta and sauces, a variety of meats and cheeses, seafood appetizers, pizzas, and other heavy foods. When the servers set out bottles of grappa, the group realized their mistake. They then respectfully declined the feast and changed to lighter fare that wouldn’t cause post-meal sleepiness during the afternoon.

Day 9: Rest day in Taormina

Riding towards Mt. Etna from Taormina on a rest day.

AMT offers a 140 Km ride to the base of Mount Etna and halfway up one side and back again on this scheduled rest day in Taormina. Because of a light rain, however, no one in the group opted to do this.

On the top of volcanic Mt. Etna.

Leaving Mt. Etna.

No matter, as touring Taormina on foot was a pleasure even with the rain. The town is spectacularly perched on the side of a mountain, and is one of Sicily’s most popular summer destinations. As I walked through the pedestrian-only streets through the old town, I am reminded that all of the cities where we had spent our nights have been amazing.

Isola Bella, or "beautiful island" and the pebbel beach below Taormina town.

AMT not only excels at picking the best roads to maximize the motorcycling experience, it also ensures that the towns we overnight in are a pleasure to wander about in. All our evening destinations have had calm pedestrian zones, where one can leisurely window shop along centuries old quaint streets or central piazzas bordered by ornate buildings.

Taormina Main Piazza by night.

Taormina is no exception, and from the medieval Piazza IX Aprile, we had sweeping views of Mount Etna, an ancient but well-preserved amphitheater with both Greek and Roman features, and the popular beaches lining the Gulf of Naxos.

Teatro Antico di Taormina.

Beautiful vista from the hotel in Taormina.

Day 10: Taormina to Tropea, 161 Km

Yay! I rejoined the riding group today!

Back on the mainland.

Riding day 10 returned us to the Italian mainland via a short 20-minute ferry ride crossing the Strait of Messina. The brief sea passage was enjoyable, under sunny skies and over calm waters. Our routes both before and after the ferry ride followed the coast lines. We hugged the cliffs on one side and enjoyed vistas of the sea on the other. Sometimes we rode high above the shoreline, winding through hillsides and other times we were down below, near sea level. Either way, we spent little time on divided motorways, which are boring and look the same anywhere in the world, right?

 The picturesque town of Scilla, where we had lunch after taking the ferry back to the mainland. 

We arrived in Tropea in mid-afternoon, which gave us time to wander through this old town perched atop an imposing cliff. The views from the main piazza were delightful, with the byzantine-style Santa Maria monastery, set on a steep, craggy outcrop, being particularly stunning when lighted up at night.

Spectacular Santa Maria Monastery.

Although we had left Sicily behind us, we carried with us many fond memories, including those of the delicious dishes we’ve enjoyed there. After a week of consuming Sicilian breakfasts, lunches, and dinners (not to mention sweet treats and gelato during our riding breaks), we have witnessed the truth in what many food critics say: While food is an art in all of Italy, it’s a religion in Sicily. Sicilian cuisine is known for its unique flavor combinations and use of fresh, local ingredients. 

 Arancini, a unique and delicious Sicilian dish. 

A case in point is eggplant, called melanzana in Italian, which is traditionally used as a meat substitute. There were several eggplant lovers in our group, and they fell in love with caponata, an original Sicilian dish combining eggplant with other vegetables, plus, olives, capers, pine nuts, and a sweet and sour tomato sauce. I’m not an eggplant fan, though.. My favorite Sicilian creations were were arancine — stuffed rice balls coated with breadcrumbs and fried — and for desert, cannoli.

Must try Cannoli.